San Antonio Shoemakers (SAS) began in 1976 when Terry Armstrong and Lew Hayden set up shop in an aircraft hangar. Their commitment to quality shows in their meticulous 100-step process where 80 pairs of skilled hands touch each shoe. You’ll find nearly 200 size combinations, ensuring the perfect fit for your feet. This family-owned company balances Italian-inspired craftsmanship with Texas values, creating footwear that prioritizes comfort without sacrificing style. The full story reveals even more impressive details.
The Birth of a Texan Shoe Legacy: How Armstrong and Hayden Started SAS
Long before SAS became synonymous with comfortable, quality footwear, Terry Armstrong and Lew Hayden crossed paths in Pittsfield, Maine. Both men gained valuable experience in the traditional New England shoe trade, where they developed a shared passion for handcrafted leather shoes.
In 1976, they transformed this vision into reality by founding San Antonio Shoemakers in Texas. The duo made a strategic decision to locate operations on San Antonio’s South Side, where they could build an American-made comfort brand.
With limited startup resources, they established their first factory inside a corner of a former aircraft hangar, an unconventional setting that nonetheless fit their hands-on ethos and startup budgets. This modest beginning—bolstered by family help and reinvested profits—laid the foundation for their “made-in-Texas” philosophy.
They pooled their resources to create shoes that prioritized full-grain leather, correct fit, and exceptional comfort—principles that would define the SAS legacy for decades to come.
From Aircraft Hangar to Footwear Empire: Early Manufacturing Challenges
Tucked into a repurposed hangar on the South Side, SAS’s first manufacturing floor represented both ingenuity and necessity. With limited capital, Armstrong and Hayden adapted the space to support a labor-intensive, multi-step process rather than a highly automated line.
Unlike typical factories that chase speed, SAS embraced craftsmanship. This approach required significant workforce development as employees mastered hand-stitching, hand-lacing, precise lasting, and premium-leather handling. Each artisan learned to create what the founders called “masterpieces of comfort and durability.”
The open floor plan proved surprisingly suitable for cell-style manual production, though it required careful layout and training. Despite early financial constraints, the emphasis on quality over speed built the foundation for SAS’s reputation for exceptional craft—an approach that would scale in later purpose-built facilities in San Antonio and Del Rio.
This dedication to quality craftsmanship mirrors the success of other Texas businesses like Gatti’s Pizza that prioritized quality ingredients and preparation methods.
The Artisan’s Touch: Inside SAS’s 100-Step Shoemaking Process
The craftsmen at SAS evolved their process from an initial dozens-of-steps workflow into an even more meticulous 100-plus-step sequence. On factory tours, you’ll see precision-cut dies, purpose-built lasting machines, and carefully maintained polyethylene lasts that ensure consistent shape and fit.
The production journey winds through core operations where:
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Skilled hands perform delicate tasks like hand-lacing and machine-stitching
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Rigorous quality checks occur at multiple stations, with tolerances measured to fractions of an inch
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Polyurethane soles—engineered with millions of microscopic air cells—are injection-bonded for resilient cushioning
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Final finishing/“ironing” smooths the leather for a clean, polished appearance
Unlike automated plants that complete shoes in only a few stages, SAS preserves traditional craft with roughly 80 people touching each pair before it reaches your feet. From day one, the founders set strict standards on materials and fit rather than chasing cheaper imports.
Perfect Fit Philosophy: Why SAS Offers Nearly 200 Size Combinations
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At the heart of SAS’s enduring success lies a sizing approach most brands won’t attempt. Their precise range includes nearly 200 size-and-width combinations—roughly 104 for men and 88 for women—spanning up to six widths from narrow to extra-wide.
This extensive range supports SAS’s Perfect Fit philosophy, where supportive footbeds, removable insoles, and carefully tuned lasts work together to help reduce fatigue and discomfort from long days on your feet. Because manufacturing remains centered in Texas, SAS can maintain fit consistency across styles and seasons.
The commitment that Armstrong and Hayden established in 1976 continues: get the fit right first, and comfort and durability will follow.
Global Inspiration, Local Craftsmanship: The Italian-Texan Connection
While SAS is proudly American-made, Texas footwear culture has long absorbed influences from European shoe-making—thanks in part to immigrant craftsmen who settled in the state. That broader heritage shows up at SAS in the form of careful leather selection, precise pattern cutting, hand finishing, and an emphasis on long-wear comfort over disposable fashion.
It’s important to note that SAS developed its own construction methods for comfort footwear; techniques such as lemonwood pegging—common in traditional Western boots—are not part of SAS’s modern comfort-shoe process. Think of SAS as an independent Texas brand that blends global craft principles with local manufacturing discipline.
Beyond the Factory Floor: SAS Retail Experience and Brand Growth
From humble San Antonio beginnings to a nationwide footprint, SAS has evolved its shopping experience to match the quality of its footwear. You’ll find brand stores and authorized retailers with fit-specialist staff who guide you through sizes, widths, and support options, plus the SAS Shoe Factory & General Store in San Antonio that offers factory tours.
Can’t make it to a store? SAS expanded online, integrating e-commerce with traditional retail to serve customers throughout the U.S. and Canada, while keeping personalization and fit guidance front and center.
Stepping Up in Times of Need: The Comfort and Support Team’s Mission
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SAS’s Comfort and Support Team brings relief one pair at a time when disasters strike. When hurricanes, floods, and other emergencies affect communities, SAS staff and volunteers work with local responders to provide properly fitted footwear and essential supplies.
Their impact goes beyond products:
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Thousands of pairs donated to disaster victims over the years
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On-site fitting to ensure comfort and safe footing in recovery zones
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Coordination with local agencies for targeted distribution
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A human touch—support and encouragement at difficult moments
Family Values in Business: How SAS Maintained Its Independent Spirit
Three core principles have defined SAS’s journey from a small workshop to an iconic American brand: family involvement, handcrafted quality, and a fiercely guarded independence.
When Armstrong and Hayden founded SAS in 1976, they created more than a company—a legacy. Multi-generational leadership and a close-knit culture helped SAS remain privately held, enabling long-term decisions instead of quarter-to-quarter compromises. You’ll see that philosophy in production, where 100-plus steps and skilled craftspeople remain central to the product.
Competing in Comfort: How SAS Stands Out in the Footwear Market
In a market crowded with mass-produced shoes, SAS carved out a distinct niche: handcrafted comfort with Texas-based quality control. While many competitors offshore production, SAS maintains rigorous standards at its facilities in San Antonio and Del Rio, where experienced teams transform materials into long-lasting footwear.
SAS’s niche rests on four differentiators:
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Unparalleled sizing options with ~88 women’s and ~104 men’s size/width combinations
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Multiple inspection rounds that protect fit and durability
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Ergonomic designs built to reduce fatigue for all-day wear
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A balance of orthopedic function with understated, classic style
Customers can see the process firsthand through factory tours, reinforcing why SAS has earned a loyal following seeking comfort and longevity.
